Crochet Sweater Pattern: Create Your Own Cozy Handmade Sweater

Discover This Beautiful Crochet Sweater Pattern

Looking for a beautiful crochet sweater pattern to create a cozy and stylish handmade sweater? This colorful design features a lovely combination of coral, green, cream, and gray, with textured details that make it stand out. Whether you’re looking for inspiration for your next crochet project or exploring new crochet sweater patterns, this design is a wonderful addition to your handmade wardrobe.

If you love creating comfortable and fashionable pieces, you’ll enjoy discovering different sweater crochet patterns and exploring styles that suit your taste. You can also find crochet sweater patterns for beginners, including simple designs that help you practice your skills while making something beautiful.

For those looking for budget-friendly projects, free crochet sweater patterns, crochet sweater patterns free, and free easy crochet sweater patterns are great options to explore. Whether you prefer an easy crochet sweater pattern free or a simple crochet sweater pattern free, there are plenty of creative possibilities to inspire your next handmade sweater.

If you have any comment, problems or questions about this pattern, send me an email [email protected], I’m happy to help!

Before you Start

Materials:

  • 5.5 mm / US I – 9 hook.
  • Lionbrand Pound of Love (454g, 100% Premium Acrylic, 932m / 1020 yds):
    • 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein Terracotta (color A)
    • 1 skein Hunter Green (color B)
    • 1 skein Elephant Grey (color C)
    • 1 skein Taupe (color D)
  • Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
  • 8 stitch markers.

Size:

The crochet sweater pattern is available in following sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL size. Sizes are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) throughout the pattern. Pictures illustrate the medium size.
The sweater is designed with a close fit, 0” to 2” / 0 – 5 cm ease.
Below are the final sweater dimensions for the different sizes.

  • XS: bust 32” / 81 cm, length 25” / 64 cm
  • S: bust 34.5” / 88 cm, length 26” / 66 cm
  • M: bust 39” / 99 cm, length 26” / 66 cm
  • L: bust 44” / 112 cm length 26” / 66 cm
  • XL: bust 46.5” / 118 cm length 26.5” / 67 cm
  • 2XL: bust 51.5” / 131 cm length 27” / 69 cm
  • 3XL: bust 56.5” /144 cm length 27.5” / 70 cm
  • 4XL: bust 59” /150 cm length 28” / 71 cm
  • 5XL: bust 64” / 163 cm length 28” / 71 cm

Gauge:

The gauge for this pattern, in alternating rows of dc / sc, is 13 st by 11 rows for a 4” by 4” / 10 cm by 10 cm square.

Abbreviations:

This pattern uses US notations.

  • st = stitch
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
  • yo = yarn over
  • skip = miss
  • sl st = slip stitch

Notes:

Work instructions between [] the indicated number of times or until the end of the row / round.
The final number of stitches is indicated at the end of the row / round between < >.
The turning ch 1, ch 2 don’t count as stitches throughout the pattern except if mentioned otherwise.
The pattern is written in crochet shorthand. For example:

  • “sc 1” means to single crochet in the next stitch,
  • “sc 2” means to single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches,
  • and “2 sc” means to single crochet twice in the next st.
    Sweater is worked in joined rounds from the top downwards.
    Piece is divided at underarms then body and sleeves are worked separately downwards.
    Sweater is worked in Sc/Dc pattern and a variety of pattern sts. The Sc/Dc pattern is always worked with A. The other pattern stitches are worked with B, C, or D, as indicated in the pattern stitch explanation. All shaping is worked in the A-colored sections.

Special stitches:

  • Puff stitch = yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull up a loop] 4 times, yo, pull through all 11 loops on the hook.
  • Bead stitch = The bead stitch is similar to a puff stitch but done horizontally. It’s worked up around a dc stitch.

Bead stitch = Work dc in indicated stitch, [yo, working around the dc post just made pull up a loop] 5 times, yo and pull through the all 11 loops on the hook.

  • Bobble stitch = [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a loop. Yo, pull through two loops] 5 times in the same space, yo and pull through all loops 6.
  • Foundation single crochet =ch 2, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through first loop (making a “chain”). Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

*Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first loop (making a “chain”). Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Repeat from * until you reached the desired number of stitches. If you are not familiar with this technique, I recommend this very helpful tutorial by Joy of Motion Crochet.

Construction

The sweater is worked in the round from the top down. The yoke is worked first, then joined under the arms to work the body, leaving the stitches for the sleeves on the sides. Finally, you’ll go back to join the yarn at the armholes and make the sleeves.

Repeated Stitch Patterns

The contrasting color sections are always identical while all the shaping is done in the main color sections (color A).

Find the detailed explanation for these repeated sections here, they will be referred to by double puff, bead and bobble waves section throughout the pattern.

Double puff section (worked in color B)

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 st), skip 1, [dc, make a puff st in the skipped st, ch 1 to close, skip 1] around to last st, hdc, sl st in the 2nd ch to join.

Round 2: Ch 2, [skip space before puff st, dc in top of puff st, make a puff st in skipped space, ch 1 to close] around, hdc in the 2nd ch, sl st to join.

Bead section (worked in color C)

Round 1: Ch 2, [bead st (counts as 2 stitches), skip 1] around, join with a sl st.

Bobble waves section (worked with color A and color D)

Work all sc stitches in color A and all bobbles in color D.

Tip: You can work this section using either tapestry crochet (the yarn color not in use is worked over by the current color and it will sit within the stitches being worked) or Fair Isle (the yarn color not in use is carried in the back (inside of the sweater)). I used the Fair Isle method as a personal preference.

Round 1: With color A ch 1, [with color D bobble, with color A sc 7] around, sl st to join.

Round 2: With color A ch 1, sc around, sl st to join.
Round 3: With color A ch 1, sc 2, with color D bobble, [with color A sc 3, with color D bobble] until last st, with color A sc, sl st to join.
Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
Round 5: With color A ch 1, sc 4, [with color D bobble, with color A sc 7], with color D bobble, with color A sc 3, sl st to join.

The Actual Sweater Crochet Pattern

All rounds are worked in color A except repeated stitch pattern sections which are worked in their respective colors. For clarity purposes, color changes are not indicated throughout the pattern.

Yoke

With your 5.5mm / US I – 9 hook and color A yarn, foundation single crochet 57 (65, 65, 73, 73, 81, 81, 89, 97) and join in the round with a sl st in the first st. <56 (64, 64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 88, 96)

Yoke Part 1

Round 1: ch 2, [dc 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11), 2 dc and place a st marker in the 2nd st] around, join with a sl st in the 2nd ch. <64 (72, 72, 80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 104)>
*Note: All sizes now have 8 marked stitches.
Round 2 (sc increase round): Ch 1, [sc until st marker, 2 sc in marked st (place marker in second st)] around, join with a sl st. <72 (80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 112)>
Round 3 (dc increase round): Ch 2, [dc until st marker, 2 dc in marked st (place marker in second st)] around, join with a sl st in the 2nd ch. <80 (88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 104, 112, 120)>
For size S & XS skip to yoke part 2.
Round 4: Sc increase round. <X (X, 96, 104, 104, 112, 112, 120, 128)>
For size M & L skip to yoke part 2.
Round 5: Dc increase round. <X (X, X, X, 112, 120, 120, 128, 136)>
Round 6: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X,120, 128, 128, 136, 144)>

For XL, 2XL skip to yoke part 2.
Round 7: Dc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, 136, 144, 152)>
For 3XL skip to yoke part 2.
Round 8: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 152, 160)>
For 4XL skip to yoke part 2.
Round 9: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 168)>

Yoke Part 2 (common to all sizes)

Round 1 – 2: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 3: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join. <88 (96, 104, 112, 128, 136, 144, 160, 176)>
Round 4 – 7: [Work dc increase round followed by sc increase round] twice.
Round 8 – 12: Work a bobble waves section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 13 – 16: [Work sc increase round followed by a dc increase round] twice.
Round 17: Sc increase round.
Round 18: Work a bead section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 19: Sc increase round.
Round 20: Dc increase round.
Round 21: Sc increase round. <184 (192, 200, 208, 224, 232, 240, 256, 272)>

Yoke Part 3

For XS size:
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < 184 (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
Round 1 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
Round 2 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6: Dc round.
Round 7: Sc round.
Round 8: Dc round.
Split for the arms: skip 40 st, sc 56, skip 40, sc 48, sl st to join. < 104 (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
For S size:
Round 1: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (208, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.

Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
Round 8: Dc round.
Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 60, skip 48, sc 52, sl st to join. < X (112, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
For M size:
Round 1: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, 224, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
Round 6 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
Round 8: Dc round.
Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 68, skip 48, sc 60, sl st to join. < X (X, 128, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>

For L size:
Round 1
: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6: Dc increase round.
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, 240, X, X, X, X, X) st>
Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
Round 9: Sc round.
Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 76, skip 48, sc 68, sl st to join. < X (X, X, 144, X, X, X, X, X) st>

For XL size:

Round 1: Dc increase round.

Round 2: Sc increase round.

Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.

Round 5: Ch 2, sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, sc in the last gap, sl st to join.

Round 6: Dc increase round.

Round 7: Sc increase round.

Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, X, 264, X, X, X, X) st>

Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.

Round 9 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.

Split for the arms: skip 56 st, sc 80, skip 56, sc 72, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, 152, X, X, X, X) st>

For 2XL size:
Round 1
: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6 – 9: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] twice.
Round 10: Dc increase round
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, X, X, 296, X, X, X) st>
Split for the arms: skip 64 st, sc 88, skip 64, sc 80, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, 168, X, X, X) st>

For 3XL size:
Round 1
: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] three times.
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, 312, X, X) st>
Split for the arms: skip 64 st, sc 96, skip 64, sc 88, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, 184, X, X) st>

For 4XL size:

Round 1: Dc increase round.

Round 2: Sc increase round.

Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.

Round 5: Ch 2, sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, sc in the last gap, sl st to join.

Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] three times.

Round 12: Dc increase round.

Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 336, X) st>

Split for the arms: skip 72 st, sc 100, skip 72, sc 92, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 192, X) st>

For 5XL size:
Round 1
: Dc increase round.
Round 2: Sc increase round.
Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] 3 times.
Round 12: Dc increase round.
Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 352) st>
Split for the arms: skip 72 st, sc 108, skip 72, sc 100, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 208) st>

Body

Work body stitches only.

Round 1 – 5: Work a bobble waves section.

Round 6 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.

Round 7: Ch 2, [dc 6, dc2tog] 8 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <96 (104, 120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200) st>

Round 8: Sc round.

Round 9 (dc round): Dc round.

Round 10: Sc round.

Round 11: Work a bead section.

Round 12 – 15: [Work sc round followed by dc round] twice

Round 16: Sc round.

Round 17 – 18: Work a double puff section.

Round 19: Ch 2, sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, sc in the last gap, sl st to join.

Round 20 – 23: [Work dc round followed by an sc round] twice

Round 24 – 28: Work a bobble waves section.

Round 29 – 32: [Work sc round followed by a dc round] twice

Round 33: Sc round

Round 34 – 44: Repeat Round 11 to 21.

Sleeves

Both sleeves are identical.

Round 1: Join yarn in the armhole and ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st. <40 (48, 48, 48, 56, 64, 64, 72, 72) st>

Round 2 – 6: Work a bobble waves section.

Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.

Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.

Round 9 – 10: Work sc round followed by dc round.

Round 11: Sc round

Round 12: Work a bead section.

Round 13 – 14: Work sc round followed by dc round.

Round 15: Sc round

Round 16: Ch 2, [dc 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16), dc2tog] 4 times, join with a sl st. <36 (44, 44, 44, 52, 60, 60, 68, 68) st>

Round 17: Sc round.

Round 18 – 19: Work a double puff section.

Round 20: Ch 2, sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, sc in the last gap, sl st to join.

Round 21: Ch 2, [dc 7 (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15), dc2tog] 4 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <32 (40, 40, 40, 48, 56, 56, 64, 64) st>

Round 22 – 23: Work sc round followed by dc round.

Round 24: Sc round.

Round 25 – 29: Work bobble waves section.

Round 30: Sc round

Round 31: Ch 2, [dc 6 (8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14), dc2tog] 4 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <28 (36, 36, 36, 44, 52, 52, 60, 60) st>

Round 32 – 33: Work sc round followed by dc round.

Round 34: Sc round.

Round 35: Work bead section.

Round 36 – 39: [Work sc round followed by dc round] twice.

Round 40: Sc round.

Round 41 – 42: Work a double puff section.

Round 43: Ch 2, sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, sc in the last gap, sl st to join.

Round 44: Dc round.

Round 45: Sc round.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Final Thoughts

Creating a beautiful crochet sweater is a wonderful way to combine creativity, comfort, and personal style. This colorful crochet sweater pattern is a lovely choice for anyone who enjoys making unique handmade clothing with beautiful textures and eye-catching details.

Whether you’re exploring different crochet sweater patterns, looking for a stylish sweater crochet pattern, or searching for crochet sweater patterns for beginners, there are plenty of designs to inspire your next project.

If you enjoy discovering affordable crochet projects, you can also explore free crochet sweater patterns, crochet sweater patterns free, and free easy crochet sweater patterns. From an easy crochet sweater pattern free to a simple crochet sweater pattern free, you’ll find many creative ideas to match your skills and preferences.

We hope this design inspires you to pick up your crochet hook and create something special. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors, textures, and different stitches to make your next handmade sweater truly your own!

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